The Sellrain Valley ranks among the premier ice climbing destinations in the Eastern Alps, offering ideal conditions for taking the next step in steep ice terrain. In this 3-day advanced course, we focus specifically on refining the techniques required for independent ice climbing on multi-pitch routes.
The curriculum centers on precise belaying techniques, efficient lead climbing, and safe movement across multi-pitch ice lines. Together, we will practice establishing belay stations in the ice, placing ice screws for intermediate protection, multi-pitch rappelling, and mastering tactical procedures for alpine ice routes. The objective of the course is to guide participants, step by step, toward undertaking independent multi-pitch ascents.
The varied terrain surrounding Lüsens provides the perfect setting for this training—ranging from short practice lines to impressive, classic icefalls. Depending on current conditions and the group's skill level, several multi-pitch ascents are planned.
This course is designed for ice climbers with prior lead climbing experience who wish to specifically expand their skill set and gain greater confidence on longer ice routes. Every participant must be proficient in belaying using modern belay devices. Ideally, participants will have already completed a 2–3 day introductory ice climbing course and subsequently gained some independent climbing experience on ice.
Course Content:
• Review and refinement of ice climbing techniques
• Efficient lead climbing
• Placing ice screws
• Building belay anchors in ice
• Rope commands and rope management
• Multi-pitch techniques in ice
• Multi-pitch rappelling
• Tactics and risk management in alpine terrain
• Independent ascent of simple multi-pitch icefalls
Planned Itinerary:
Day 1 – Technique & Belay Procedures
Meeting point in Lüsens for a joint gear check. After a short approach, we begin by reviewing and refining modern ice climbing techniques. Subsequently, we work intensively on the fundamentals required for independent multi-pitch ascents: efficient ice screw placement, building belay anchors in ice, rope management, and safe belay procedures while lead climbing. Depending on skill levels and conditions, we will attempt our first short lead climbs and multi-pitch sections on ice.
Key Focus Areas:
• Climbing technique on steep ice
• Correct ice screw placement
• Building belay anchors
• Lead climbing training
• Rope commands & rope management
Day 2 – Multi-Pitch Ice Climbing
On the second day of the course, the primary focus is on applying the learned techniques to longer ice lines. Climbing in rope teams, we will lead-climb multiple pitches, practicing smooth and efficient workflow on the mountain. During this process, we will delve deeper into topics such as route selection, belay station organization, transitions at the belay, and tactical decision-making in alpine terrain. Depending on conditions, we plan to climb a classic multi-pitch icefall in the Sellrain Valley.
Key Focus Areas:
• Independent rope team procedures
• Multi-pitch lead climbing
• Belay station management
• Tactics & risk management
• Multi-pitch rappelling
Day 3 – Independent Tour & Coaching
The third day is dedicated to consolidating all course content. Participants are expected to operate as independently as possible within their rope teams and complete a multi-pitch route under the guidance of the mountain guide. The guide actively accompanies the tour, provides individualized coaching, and refines belaying and climbing techniques directly in the field. The course concludes with a joint debriefing session featuring individual assessments and recommendations for your future progression in ice climbing.
Key Focus Areas:
• Independent multi-pitch climbing
• Efficiency & safety
• Tour procedures
• Individualized coaching
• Final debriefing & Feedback
Course Information:
• Duration: 3 days
• Meeting Point: 9:00 AM at Alpengasthof Praxmar
• Tour End: Approx. 3:00 PM on the final day
• Base/Hut: Alpengasthof Praxmar
• Minimum Number of Participants: 4
(Information regarding minimum participant numbers: www.alpinschule-garmisch.de/Informationen-zur-Mindestteilnehmerzahl)
• Included Services: Guided instruction by a certified mountain and ski guide
• Additional Costs:
◦ Accommodation/Meals: 2 nights in a shared bunk room (Lager) with half-board (approx. €200). We will reserve your accommodation for you; you simply need to pay on-site.
◦ Additional costs incurred due to changes in the planned itinerary
◦ Any parking fees for your private vehicle at the agreed meeting point
◦ Gratuities
• Participant Requirements:
◦ Physical Fitness: Good physical fitness for approaches and multi-hour tour days
◦ Technical Skills:
◾ Confident seconding (following) on icefalls up to approx. WI4
◾ Lead climbing experience on icefalls up to approx. WI3
◦ Other: Mastery of climbing belay techniques
◦ Minimum Age: 16 years and older (with parental consent)
• Required Equipment:
◦ Each participant requires their own complete set of ice climbing equipment (individual items may be rented from us for a fee)
• Country: Austria
